Showing posts with label photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photography. Show all posts

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Canon EF 50mm 1.8 II - The Astro Mod

It's time to break the silence with something simple: "The Astro Mod" of Canon EF-50mm 1.8 II!

Say what?

The EF 50mm 1.8 II is notoriously sloppy, mechanically. It's really good for AF in the cold weather. I've tested it at -30C and seen there is no friction, AF runs smoothly. The drawback is the poor collimation, and it may even change according to the camera orientation. Poor collimation means that the image is not equally sharp throughout the field of view. It should not be a problem for landscape photography, but the starry sky shows the flaws of the optics hands down.

The fix

Fill the gap! This is not my design. I was looking for information about 50mm modifications and improvements and then I found this from Jim Riffle's website:
 
Photo: Jim Riffle, http://www.astroworks.com/gallery/350D/widefield.html

It removes the slackness and it also works as a dew/glare shield. No disassembly required, and there's nothing permament in this addon. Now the manual focus has a decent touch, and it stays where you adjust it, with proper collimation. I don't recommend trying AF as the friction might damage the internal gears.

Here's my first implementation with self-adhesive transparent film, with the protective paper kept on:
Photo: Sami Jumppanen

Now I can focus to the remaining problems in astrophotography: the actual focusing, and aligning and stabilizing the mount. Waiting for some free time and good weather.

Sunday, 24 January 2010

Cold enough for astrophoto gear?

22th January 2010, Mikkeli, Finland. 10 PM. Temperature -26C. Sky: no clouds. Adequate seeing and temperature for astrophoto gear test!

Cold enough?

Barely, but yes! I don't know what most people really think about this low temperature, so let's cool down and not get into details about weather. I wanted to test my equipment in case I really need to use them in very low temperatures.

Equipment

- Canon EOS D60- Canon EF 50mm 1.8 II- EQ-1 equatorial mount with EQ-1 Simple Type motor and EQ-1 foto adaptor- Tronic portable battery (12V/7Ah) with 9V output modified as regulated 8V
- YongNuo MC-36b timer (on the PCB there is a text "MC-36C")- Panora 10x50 binoculars- small astronomical lens telescope (D=60 mm, F=415 mm)- some home-made DC cables- headlight, or how do you call it, a fore-head light with red LED

The test

The one purpose of the test was to find out whether the EQ-1 motor runs below -25C or not. EQ-1 runs on a 9V battery, except when the battery loses the power. Previously I had seen that rechargeable 9V block is not enough in -15C. Now I have eliminated the power supply factor by using a bigger battery. Rucksack at my back, smaller camera rucksack in the front, binoculars hanging there somewhere as well and the EQ-1 + telescope in my left hand I walked to the lake. It's just a half a kilometer walk. At the target, on ice, I tried to carry out the normal procedure required when taking astronomical photos on a random location. Just one exception: I really cannot take my gloves off for no longer than, say, 10 seconds at a time. Cold hands are always worse than warm hands with gloves.

Let's fast forward to the test. I was able to fix the camera to the mount, connect the cables etc. with my gloves on. Actually, at first I tried to align the mount by using the telescope with 20x magnification, but I just wasted time. Let's not waste time now by explaining all that stuff. I will eventually cover the EQ mount alignment in another post. Anyway, I replaced the telescope with the camera. Note that not all the equipment and cables had cooled down to ambient temperature during my walk, just close to it. The DC cable was pretty curly when I connected it to the battery. I decided to use the BP-511 battery and not the adaptor for Canon, as I wasn't going to take very many photos.

The EQ-1 motor runs on 8V regulated power supply! Good news. Only changing the direction (swithing to "S" as for "Southern hemisphere") caused bad noise, probably on the motor axle. I switched the direction immediately back to "Northern". Luckily, there was no extra noise with clockwise operation. The electronics did some "curve" at one point, making the motor run noticeably faster for some time. I don't have a good explanation for this. Let's just say the speed control circuit does not always function correctly ;) I eventually had everything set for the actual photography.

Frozen observations

A number of things were different than in warm environment.

1. The declination axle of EQ-1 had some extra friction, but not serious.

2. The declination setting circle that was supposed to be fixed and calibrated at the factory, started to partially move along with the declination axis.

3. The mechanism overall had reduced feel, so I wasn't sure how much force to use when tightening the locking screws. For the first time I had the idea that the wings can be broken by excessive force. They have to be tightened so that neither axis can turn by themselves, and on the other hand, the right ascension will turn by the motor.

4. Breathing. Exhaling to any glassware makes it practically opaque. Be careful.

5. Canon D60. Works very well. The LCD display on the top didn't slow down, and the same goes for the colour display. All the buttons and dials operated like in warm environment.

6. Canon EF 50mm 1.8 II. Works extremely well! I am talking about the auto-focus. I didn't notice a difference in operation between room temperature and serious frost. Very good news for astrophotographer :) Or hobbyist, like me, when talking about gear like this :P

7. Plastic fantastic! Need I say more? The cables can cause problems. Even if you can unpack them, make sure you have plenty of room for them when you are packing! It's almost like dried up spaghetti.

8. The timer obviously had a "southern" type of LCD. I knew about this by previous experience. Although the operational temperature range begins at -20C, at that temperature the cable begins to get stiffer and the display is really slow. You may need to wait for a few seconds to verify what you have entered. However, that was not a big problem, I could still make the changes I needed. The buttons seem to work just fine.

9. When you get back home, don't just run inside with your gear! Moisture will be developed if you do this. I did the easiest thing possible to avoid this: I left the packed rucksacks on the floor of the entrance, close to the front door, away from the radiator. I took the gear to the normal room temperature on the next morning, but still didn't unpack until afternoon.

Success

11.50 PM. Temperature -28C. The test was successful! A bunch of paper tissues needed (next time: remember to pack them!), a mug of warm water and check out the photos later. Good night!

Monday, 29 June 2009

DSLR sensor cleaning - DIY?

Preciouuuussss...

It seemed like it was time to clean the sensor of my precious Canon EOS D60. No, I didn't buy it years ago, just one year and six months ago. Winter 2008. But it's my first *SLR camera. And, for some strange reason, I like it. I could say I can live with the features and quality it lacks, but it's easier to say I like it. It's a good camera after all. And it was released already in 2001! Who's got 6 megapixels of higher age? :p

Sensor cleaning - DIY sports or not?

I've read the valuable (IMHO) four blog post series about sensor cleaning - the "Sensor Cleaning Mythbusting (Part 1)", by my friend Alex. Thanks, and wow! I recommend you read it too, before taking part into random debates and warnings against DIY cleaning on forums. You're probably missing an important point of view and real-life experiences about the subject. And he writes well, so you won't lose much anyway :)

After reading the blog posts, cleaning the sensor began to sound like an impossible task. Or something I could easily postpone. I postponed it. Also, I had never looked for trouble (no test shots for dust spots, no careful examination of the sensor itself). And I had never seen those spots in my photos.

Anyway...

I did have an idea how to clean the sensor. You just got to have ideas with aging gear. Or just money, but I prefer the ideas in DIY spirit. I thought to use chamois leather swabs with isoprophylene alcohol. I had used those in A/V repair shop, for cleaning VHS video drums. They're wide, so they are suitable for flat, large - and sensitive - surfaces. I just didn't have any at hand. I was going to buy a few. Meanwhile...

From the beginning of (my DSLR) time I had remembered one friend telling about using cotton swabs and drinkable alcohol for sensor cleaning. Wow! I had stopped using drinks even for cleaning tape recorder heads some... 20 years ago! And cotton... doesn't it leave particles or fibre residue? The residue is not a problem on tape recorder heads, as it normally is wiped away with the actual smudge. But on a large sensor?

On one summer late night

I was working on the 1" tube adapter (to be announced later) for attaching EOS body to small hobbyist telescopes. I had the camera on the table, without a lens. Suddenly, without any warning, I got the idea: let's use the cotton swabs and isoprophylene alcohol!

The swabs did erase the dust, but left traces. I finished the job with lens fabric. After a few retries the traces were gone. Seems like I did it! Test shots? Well... those can wait :)